Stone | Spanjer

Spanjer handmade beaded chain necklace with fire agate, Tibetan agate, black onyx, jade, wood, and brass. (Photo courtesy of Carolyn Janus.)

Spanjer handmade beaded chain necklace with fire agate, Tibetan agate, black onyx, jade, wood, and brass. (Photo courtesy of Carlyn Janus.)

A few weeks ago I went to a show of work by independent artists and designers. I never know what to expect at these things, because often you see the same type of thing over and over. I like vintage charm necklaces as much as the next person, but I am always looking for something different.

I love metal and gemstones, but Spanjer caught my eye because it is made of humbler materials, and the look is so organic yet sophisticated. I immediately thought of Iris Apfel and her layers of oversized beads and ethnic baubles.

IMG_2612Designer Carlyn Janus only makes one collection of jewelry every year (Spanjer is her mother’s maiden name). Before that, she sources materials according to a certain palette of colors and textures–mainly one-of-a-kind beads and stones.”I only work with natural materials like stone, wood, brass, and leather,” she says, but will make the occasional exception for “super cool” vintage plastic or plated beads.

Spanjer necklace of lapis with Tibetan agate, moonstone, and brass. (Photo courtesy Caroylyn Janus)

Spanjer necklace of lapis with Tibetan agate, moonstone, and brass. (Photo courtesy Carlyn Janus)

She starts working once she has assembled all of her materials. “I never really know what I will end up with,” she says. “Each piece forms itself in my hands, and that’s the exciting part.” Indeed, that is the mystical truth and purpose of the creative process–the journey and the effort, and not knowing the ending.

Spanjer is just one of Carlyn’s creative efforts. She paints, does graphic design, takes photographs and more, sometimes with other people, under the name MUDPONY, her design collective. Contact her through her site if you’d like to see or learn more.

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History of Personal Scents | Giorgio Beverly Hills

The sense of smell is strongly tied to memory. Certain scents can encapsulate an era, a life stage, or even a specific incident. In this series of posts, I’m going through some significant scents throughout my life, starting from childhood. You can see all of them here.

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In the early 80s–a time of big hair, big money, and big shoulder pads–the must-have perfume was undeniably Giorgio Beverly Hills. Suddenlly it was everywhere, and this super-intense, overpoweringly sweet, and instantly recognizable scent was impossible to ignore. This was a perfume that announced your arrival and signaled your presence even after you’d left the room. It was even allegedly banned in several Los Angeles restaurants.

I was in middle school, so for me Giorgio is forever associated with the first stirrings of adulthood–not just sex, but sophistication, glamor, and worldliness. The essence of carnal knowledge in a tall, elegant bottle.

It also smelled like money, which my family definitely did not have. Like many other  things my friends were blithe about owning, Giorgio beyond my reach. A bottle was decisively out of my price range, and my mother wouldn’t spend money on such status-symbol frivolities, even as a treat. My friends and I spritzed ourselves with their moms’ bottles, and sometimes someone brought one to school. I can only imagine the headaches our teachers must have suffered, stuck in a classroom with half the girls doused in it, a cloud of pheromones, sweat, and Giorgio.

Around 1984, my mother, my brother, and I went to LA for an extremely rare vacation away from home, staying with family friends. My mother’s friend had a bottle and invited me to go into her bathroom and spritz it on whenever I wanted. I was normally too shy to take advantage of these offers, but in this case I couldn’t resist. As many spritzes as I wanted! I was in heaven. My mother, who was a bit unnerved by my attraction to material things, and who preferred more subtle scents, was not.

During that trip, we visited and gawked at Rodeo Drive, which was the home of the Giorgio Beverly Hills boutique, with its distinctive yellow-and-white awnings. My mother ‘s friend told us how once she and her kids had gone into one of the stores on Rodeo and a salesperson had made a show of wiping off some clothing with a little brush after one of them touched it. We all laughed and scoffed at the pretentiousness of it all, but secretly I wanted to be the kind of rich, stylish person who was welcomed and fawned over at that kind of store.

Giorgio is still around. I wonder about the demographics of those who buy it now. Could it some day be so retro as to be trendy again, like 80s fashion was? It’s actually a beautiful scent–there’s a reason that it was so popular. But like shoulder pads and leggings, it would probably have to be altered to fit in with today’s tastes. And then it wouldn’t be Giorgio anymore.

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Stone | My Issues With Diamonds

A tale of two diamond rings: my grandmother's engagement and cocktail rings.

A tale of two diamond rings: my grandmother’s engagement and cocktail rings.

I’ve never been a huge fan of diamonds. They always seemed ostentatious to me, and I hardly have the kind of lifestyle where I need any. And of course while rings have long been a symbol of love and commitment, the whole diamond engagement ring “tradition” originated in a marketing campaign. Yes, your rock is the result of a coldly calculated push by the diamond industry, not an ancient symbol of everlasting love. Do I even need to mention the brutal conditions endured by diamond mine workers? (I am aware that there are conflict-free diamonds.)

Mostly they just seemed a bit boring to me. They looked rather cold compared to the seductive green gleam of emeralds or the shiny opaque mystery of pearls. And most engagement rings seemed to be little more than a diamond delivery system—just a structure for showcasing a single gem. Yawn.

I have grown to like them, however, when used in original and creative ways. For a long time I was fascinated by jewelry made with raw diamonds. It seems so subversive, choosing to go with the irregular rock instead of chipping away at it to reveal the faceted gem inside.

Great example of a rough diamond integrated into a unique design. Ring and photo from tanja-ufer.co.uk.

Great example of a rough diamond integrated into a unique design. Ring and photo from tanja-ufer.co.uk.

A gorgeous example that highlights the beauty of rough diamonds. Photo and ring by liloveve.com.

A gorgeous example that highlights the beauty of rough diamonds. Ring and image from liloveve.com.

These days, I find myself liking the look of a lot of small diamonds instead of one big solitaire. I often wear my grandmother’s art deco cocktail ring, pictured above, for everyday occasions. It’s subtle, but it catches the light in a way that I find very pleasing. That’s the undeniable appeal of diamonds–that sparkle that is like nothing else. Perhaps they’re not my best friend, but I could make a place for them in the inner circle. However, unless I strike it rich or someone buys me some, my collection isn’t going to grow anytime soon. That’s all right. I really do like amethysts and peridot.

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Stone | Necklace Management

IMG_2595For a long time I tried to think of a really original way to display my necklaces and keep them untangled.  I thought about finding a cool branch somewhere and hanging it up, but my handyman skills are nil and, you know, BUGS. So I finally gave up and bought this faux coral jewelry organizer at a local shop where the part of the proceeds go to help developmentally disabled adults. If I can’t be Martha Stewart, I can at least be socially responsible while I consume.

My mother had real coral in our house when I was growing up, which she would hang on the walls. I don’t know what happened to it, and of course you don’t want to use buy real coral now, as it’s increasingly endangered. I also spotted this faux red coral at Pottery Barn. It’s not as big but could work for rings and bracelets.

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History of Personal Scents | Jean Naté

The sense of smell is strongly tied to memory. Certain scents can encapsulate an era, a life stage, or even a specific incident. In this series of posts, I’m going through some significant scents throughout my life, starting from childhood.

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Did everyone’s mom have a bottle of Jean Naté after-bath splash in the 1970s? Mine kept one under our bathroom sink, but rarely used it. I have a distinct memory of it there, growing dusty next to extra rolls of toilet paper and a disused box of facial powder. Like the white gloves and fancy pink nightgowns in the recesses of my mother’s dresser, it served as a symbol of the glamorous adult life I thought she must have had before I was born.

The fragrance was nothing all that complex or exotic–rather a zippy citrus scent, as its bright yellow packaging would suggest–but there was something about it. When I got a little older, I still preferred it to the cloying fumes of Love’s Baby Soft, a favorite of preteens in the early 80s. I remember carefully trying to splash it on my body like they showed in the ads and thinking how sophisticated and different it made me from my peers.

The fragrance and brand dates back to 1935, which probably accounts for the art deco-y design. It holds up well: for a mass-market brand carried in drugstores, it still looks pretty chic.

I still hear the refrain from the commercial in my head sometimes  –“Jean Naté! Jean Naté!”

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Scent | Coqui Coqui Perfumes

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Sigh.

I just got back from Tulum, Mexico. One of the few things I wanted to do other than sitting on the beach watching the waves was visit the local outpost of Coqui Coqui.

I was introduced to Coqui Coqui perfume by Ariane Prewitt, who carries some of them at her seasonal AP shop in Lakeside, Michigan (her store will have to be another post sometime!). The company is based in the Yucatan peninsula and its scents are inspired by and reflect the lush environment. Here’s a great overview and lovely photos. Warning: may cause immediate travel plans.

In Tulum, the Coqui Coqui boutique and residence is right on the beach, naturally. It’s all very “beautiful people,” but everyone is very friendly and down-to-earth–this is Mexico, not Paris, after all! You can shop in your bare feet. (I never stopped being amused by that.) They also sell some accessories like woven bags and leather jewelry, but I was there for the scents. (Hint: there are some excellent boutiques right next door on the beach road, including the beautiful Caravana. Owned by the same people, it has a similar bohemian-luxe aesthetic.)

All of the perfumes are on display, and you can try them out to your heart’s content, without anyone hovering over you offering to “help” (a major pet peeve of mine). Each fragrance is unisex, although some may be more traditionally “feminine” or “masculine” than others. Scents are generally one main note with some secondary elements, such as Tabaco (you can guess what that is), Rosas Fresas, Rosas Secas, and Orange Blossom–but they are incredibly complex and deep. And they’re pretty affordable.

You can buy some of the perfumes online, but for the whole line (which includes body and massage oils, candles, and the like), you have to go to Mexico. After sniffing them all, I narrowed my choices to two: Maderas, redolent of tropical woods, and Eucated, a blend of eucalyptus and cedar. I sprayed one on either arm and decided to take a day to decide, as I was staying just down the beach.

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Originally I was leaning toward the Eucated–it was really arresting and I couldn’t stop smelling it–but unusually for me, I ended up not going with my first choice and decided on the Maderas. While striking, the Eucated was too vegetal for me. I love woodsy smells, and the Maderas grew on me more and more. It’s been about a week since I got back, and I still adore this spicy scent. I was even wearing it to sleep! I think it may even be my new signature fragrance. And since smells are so intimately tied to memory and experience, it will always bring back my getaway to the exotic beach-jungle environment of Tulum.

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